What overhead really costs you (with worked examples)
By Rebecca Stephens 9 min read
Overhead is the money your business spends whether or not you swing a hammer today. Most contractors know it exists and almost none of them know the number. That is a problem, because if overhead is not inside your bid, it comes out of your profit — and once profit is gone, it comes out of your household.
What counts as overhead
The test is simple: if the cost happens even during a week with no work, it is overhead. If it only happens because a specific job happens, it is a job cost.
| Overhead (indirect) | Job cost (direct) |
|---|---|
| Truck payment, insurance, registration | Fuel driving to a specific job |
| General liability and business insurance | Job-specific permits |
| Phone, internet, software subscriptions | Materials for the job |
| Licensing, bonding, dues | Rented equipment for the job |
| Accounting, bank fees, legal | Subcontractor invoices for the job |
| Advertising, website, signage | Dump fees for the job |
| Storage or shop rent | Your labor hours on the job |
| Tool replacement and repairs | Consumables used on the job |
Build your annual number from bank statements
Do not estimate this. Open twelve months of business banking and card statements and put every recurring non-job charge into a list. A realistic solo operation often looks like this:
| Item | Monthly | Annual |
|---|---|---|
| Truck payment | $480 | $5,760 |
| Vehicle insurance and registration | $140 | $1,680 |
| General liability insurance | $95 | $1,140 |
| Phone and internet | $110 | $1,320 |
| Software and subscriptions | $45 | $540 |
| Accounting and tax prep | $70 | $840 |
| Licensing, bonding, dues | $40 | $480 |
| Advertising and website | $120 | $1,440 |
| Tool replacement and repair | $150 | $1,800 |
| Storage unit | $105 | $1,260 |
| Total | $1,355 | $16,260 |
Sixteen thousand dollars leaves the account before a single job is priced. Add unpaid administrative time — estimating, invoicing, chasing payment — and the real burden is higher still.
Turn the annual total into an hourly rate
The usable version of overhead is a per-hour figure you can add to every estimate:
Overhead Rate = Annual Overhead ÷ Annual Billable Hours
Billable hours are the hours you can actually charge for, not the hours you work. A solo contractor working 48 weeks at 45 hours puts in 2,160 hours, but bills perhaps 1,250 of them once you subtract estimating, driving, supply runs, invoicing, and weather.
$16,260 ÷ 1,250 = $13.01 per billable hour
So a 40-hour job carries $520 of overhead. A 6-hour service call carries $78. Those numbers go into the cost side of the bid, before margin.
Be honest about billable hours
Overstating billable hours is the most common way this calculation goes wrong. If you assume 2,000 billable hours and really bill 1,200, your overhead rate is 40% too low and every bid you write for the year is short. Track two weeks with a notepad: billable, drive, admin. Multiply up. Use the real ratio.
The percentage method, and why the hourly one is better
Many contractors add overhead as a flat percentage of job cost — say 15%. It is quick, and it works if your jobs are similar. It falls apart on material-heavy work: a job with $9,000 of cabinets and 10 hours of labor gets loaded with $1,350 of overhead it never consumed, and you lose the bid to someone whose math is closer to reality. Meanwhile a labor-heavy job with cheap materials gets under-loaded.
Overhead is mostly driven by time, so charge it by time. If you prefer a percentage, apply it to labor only, not to the whole job cost.
Overhead is not profit
Recovering overhead means you broke even. Profit sits on top of it. The full stack:
- Direct labor
- Direct materials and subs
- Overhead allocation (hours × overhead rate)
- = Job cost
- Bid = Job cost ÷ (1 − target margin)
Skipping step three and calling the margin "the overhead and profit" is how a 25% margin turns into an 11% one by December. See markup vs. margin for the second half of that trap.
Reduce overhead before you raise prices — but not much
Worth auditing once a year: subscriptions you stopped using, insurance you never re-shopped, a storage unit holding tools you would not replace if they vanished. Cutting $200 a month is $2,400 a year, straight to profit.
But you cannot cut your way to a business. Most overhead — insurance, vehicle, phone — is the price of being legitimate. The answer is almost always to price it in, not to strip it out.
Recalculate twice a year
Insurance renews, fuel moves, a new truck payment starts. Re-run the annual total every six months and update the hourly rate you use in your bids. It takes twenty minutes and it is the cheapest raise you will ever give yourself.
The Bid Buddy calculator has an overhead field built into the cost stack, so once you know your rate the allocation happens automatically on every estimate.
Put these numbers to work
Drop your labor, materials, overhead, and target margin into the free calculator and get a bid price in about a minute. No account needed.
Open the free bid calculator →Keep reading
- How to price a job when you're new to contracting
A step-by-step method for pricing your first contracting jobs: labor rates, materials, overhead, and the margin that keeps you in business.
- Markup vs. margin: the mistake that quietly kills small contractors
Markup and margin are not the same number. See the math, the conversion table, and why a 30% markup only leaves you 23% profit.
- How to estimate materials without over-buying
Takeoff formulas, realistic waste factors, and a supplier routine that stops you eating returns, restock fees, and leftover stock.
- Writing a bid that wins without being the cheapest
The structure of a bid homeowners actually say yes to: scope, exclusions, options, and the follow-up that closes the job.